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Black Magic

Map & Graphics courtesy of Open Space Institute; Additional images by (Lawrence paddling) Brooks Geer; (Lawrence playing banjo) by Brooks Geer; Renderings by (3) Craig Gaulden Davis Architects

Photography Stratton LawrencePhotos 36Issue October 2024
Black MagicBlack MagicLaunch Day in Late May: Spirits were high as the paddlers navigated narrow stretches of black water; (left to right) Ryan “Co” Coverdale, Ryland Fox, Brooks Geer, and Stratton Lawrence.Day 1: Exploring the sandbar chosen for the campsite.The “Pig Island” camp after dawn.Moments of still air create surreal reflections in the swamps along the riverStaying up late on the first night.Chili with Lowcountry-harvested venison.Co prepares dinner for the crew.The author’s 16-foot fiberglass canoe.Day 2: Paddling just south of Kingstree with Dr. Louis Drucker, the town’s volunteer riverkeeper.An aerial view of an afternoon swim spot.Coverdale, Drucker, and park project manager Nick Wallover swap jokes during a break from paddling.Day 3: South of Kingstree, Co takes his chances with the rotting planks held in by rusty nails to make a splash.Black MagicThe river widens, and the cypress trees get bigger as the group nears the coast.Seared burritos for lunch from chef Co.Snakes are everywhere, but difficult to spot.An afternoon swim and fish break to escape the heat.The author settles into river time in his fully loaded canoe.Day 4: A large sandbar inspires a morning off from paddling.It looks as bad as it sounds around us, with thunder claps every 30 seconds.... We find a small sandbar...and squat in the lightning position. It’s all we can do but hope and pray.At low water, wide sandbars abound on the Black River’s tight curves.Sewee Outpost country ham biscuits taste even better off a cast-iron skillet on a sandbar.Ryland kicks back in a canoe built for two.The river splits into multiple channels throughout its course, offering opportunities to explore—and get lost.Day 5: Swallow-tailed kites nest in a cypress along the riverbank in Georgetown County.Swapping canoes for real horsepower at Pine Tree Landing.Exploring Mingo Creek, about 30 miles north of Georgetown.Day 5: Co flips for a dip during one of many swim breaks.An ancient cypress tree along the riverbank.Day 6: Hot biscuits at the Whitehead cabin.Brooks Geer pilots his Scout near Georgetown.In search of beers and a hearty meal along Georgetown’s waterfront.Black River State Park Unit Two, “The Meadows,” (top and right) will be the “central hub” of the system, with a visitor center and numerous amenities such as a fishing pier, launches, and camping; (left) Unit Three will include paddle launches and camping (RV spots and tent sites, plus tree houses and cabins).Kingstree’s Black River Landing will be a waterfront park and paddle launch that links downtown businesses and restaurants with the river. Future plans for the site include a wildlife education center.

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Black Magic: Tag along on a six-day adventure on the Lowcountry’s wildest river
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